Approximately one third of allergies resulting from cosmetic products are caused by fragrance. These figures are likely underestimated as a result of under reporting due to a lack of understanding and research on the subject of allergies and allergen origins. Acute eczema, or dermatitis, is an example of an allergic skin reaction which can be caused directly by fragrance exposure. Lists of ingredients recognised as directly causing allergic reaction are continuously being reviewed and expanded.

It can be difficult to decipher terms thrown around referring to skin allergies, so let’s break them down:

Dermatitis is an umbrella term for allergic reactivity of the skin, including skin rashes and itching, eye swelling etc.

Eczema specifically refers to very itchy, dry patches of skin.

Atopic eczema occurs because of a combination of factors, including genetics, internal immune system reactions, and stress. It is very common in children, who often “grow out of” eczema. Similarly, adults can develop atopic eczema.

Psoriasis is like atopic eczema as it occurs due to internal factors (immune system reaction and stress), but the symptoms are different. Psoriasis is characteristically larger, thicker patches of red skin, less itchy than eczema and appearing in clusters on the body.

Atopic dermatitis can refer to both atopic eczema and psoriasis. In the context of allergies, however, we are talking about contact dermatitis.

Contact dermatitis is the skin reacting to an external factor, such as the chemicals and preservatives in cosmetics. Contact dermatitis cannot be “outgrown” - it is triggered by a traumatic exposure of the skin to an allergen. Increased exposure to the allergen worsens the symptoms of contact dermatitis and further sets off the immune system’s fight response. Each reaction can trigger new allergies, heightening the immune response and developing different dermatitis symptoms of increased severity.

Dermatitis is an umbrella term for skin reactions including eczema, psoriasis, eye swelling etc.

In the context of allergic reaction, and specifically contact dermatitis, increased exposure to the allergen will result in hypersensitivity, rather than tolerance. Whilst an initial reaction might at first produce mild symptoms, for example skin irritation in the form of eczema, subsequent exposure will produce an increased level of severity in terms of reaction.

Contact dermatitis occurs twice as frequently in women than in men (most likely due to increased use of cosmetics products). The most common allergies result from fragrances and preservatives. The vast majority of cosmetics and personal care products including makeup, hair products (including hair dye), skincare and oral care contain fragrance and preservatives known to cause allergic reactions.

Skin reaction to chemicals and fragrances and the way in which these combine to produce irritant variables is under researched. Contact dermatitis is an extremely common problem and the result of complex biochemistry, which the cosmetics industry fails to address, let alone investigate and fully understand as a result of a general lack of regulation.

Read our thought piece: Deciphering Ingredient Lists.